I got a new Biqu H2V2 for my Ender 3 pro , since myold hotend started getting unreliable and that was a great excuse for yet another upgrade.
I wasn't happy with the carriage holder I printed, so I wanted to print a new one. After afew hours of printing, I needed to abandon one part, since it was incredibly messy with blobs of PLA gooped on the print. Since I needed the new carriage mount, I didn't think anything off it and simply abandoned that part and continued the other ones.
Today, I saw that the heating block is completely gooped up with PLA (see pictures). So now, I got two questions:
- How should I remove that gunk? I was thinking o| carefully peeling of everything without the silicone sleeve while the hotend is at a low PLA-bending temp, like 150°C, or 175°C.
- What caused this? Flowrate too high (the prints look the part)? Too fast extrusion? Heatcreep?
Thanks in advance. (:
Sorry, not an english native speaker, so I didn't know what a tap was. Good thing that context made me not google myself to death with that non-SEO friendly term (it's the drill thing that cuts threads inno holes).
A new heating block is a bit cheaper and I got no use for a tap, so I just ordered a new one. Maybe I give the torching method a try, too before it arrives.
Anywho: I understand the hotend way better now. I guess the 4,50€ for a new heating block is worth it. (:
It's a right of passage, I switched all my hotends to fixed blocks, accidentally loosened the block once on the older style hotend after torquing correctly and enveloped the thing in petg, it kinda vitrified too or something in the heat, was like glass so no getting that off.
Generally, blobs off of your hotend, estop it and take a look, that's a huge tell for a leak.
Worth keeping a few spares around, at least for stuff like nozzles, blocks, heaters and probes.
I see. I probably should have been more specific, sorry. If you do try torching the parts, be very careful with the heater block. They are usually aluminum, and can melt much more easily than the steel and brass parts.
Nah, don't worry about it. You used the correct term, which happens to have an amiguous name (you'd translate the German term to "thread-cutting drill").
Thanks for the heads up. Is it very unadvisable to leave the PLA in the threading if nozzle and heatbreak have proper contact?
I think if you can ensure they all thread together without a problem, it doesn’t need to be perfectly clean, but I suspect that will be difficult if there is melted filament in the threads at all
The new heating block is in transit. I'll do some checks.