this post was submitted on 06 Jul 2025
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I finished my 3D Printable screw design! Excellent print ability, reliable for simple use, though the head is prone to strip... can't win them all. (programming.dev)
submitted 1 day ago by the16bitgamer@programming.dev to c/3dprinting@lemmy.world
37 comments fedilink hide all child comments
 

If you wanna print it yourself, the model is here: https://www.printables.com/model/1348194-4n-threaded-flat-head-screws-and-nuts-10-32-equiva

Design to be a drop in replacement for 10-32 screws with a much, much higher pitch. These screws are extremely easy to print, is reliable enough that it can hold some weight.

If you wanna print this yourself, you need to make sure that the screw is sideways, so if it breaks it's no on the layer lines.

Using them in my own prints which had metal screws and they are holding quiet well.

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[–] JohnnyCanuck@lemmy.ca 3 points 10 hours ago

I wonder if 3d printed driver tips would be better for matching the material strength and reduce stripping. Or maybe they wouldn't have enough strength at all and would just twist and fall apart.

I was also wondering how well printing drywall anchors would work.

[–] BootLoop@sh.itjust.works 42 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

Torx or Robertson would probably be a better choice for head.

[–] a_person@lemmy.world 7 points 20 hours ago (3 children)

I mean, theorerically, but a phillips screw is much less complicated and easier to print bc less overhang

[–] JohnEdwa@sopuli.xyz 8 points 9 hours ago

Robertson is a square. Rotate it 45 degrees and it has no overhangs at all.

[–] Onomatopoeia@lemmy.cafe 7 points 18 hours ago

And given the lack of strength in these screws, cam-out is likely a positive (which is what the Phillips what's designed to do).

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 6 points 16 hours ago* (last edited 16 hours ago) (1 children)

Printing like this is a fun start on the path of thinking about what is possible.

In FreeCAD, there is Mark's Thread Design workbench. That includes a thread profile called the buttressed thread. The profile has a print orientation where, if you print it vertical, the thread will not produce any overhangs, like if a normal thread profile is > a buttress thread is 7. Mark has a YT upload on how to use his workbench. It is pretty easy to follow and a simple one to use.

At the stage I'm at in design, built in clips can replace most hardware. If I'm using printed threads it is usually a very large thread with some thin sleeve like clearance. I like to build splines into my threads to also create locking elements in the same space.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 3 points 9 hours ago* (last edited 9 hours ago) (1 children)

Having single pointed 3"-4 Buttress threads on a manual lathe for punch presses more than once and hand grinding the tool bit from 1/2" x 1" HSS, I still have some PTSD over that thread form. But hey, if you are looking to make breaching for a 16" Navel Rifle, it's really the only game in town......

As a toolmaker, I have seen Buttress threads used in only 3 places. Large artillery breaching, punch press ball screws, and VERY high end, (read expensive), machinist clamps. I own a pair I picked up at an auction 30 years ago in a bucket of "junk". I think they were made by another machinist for personal use.

Edit to add: Buttress threads are directional. They can be either left or right. The choice being totally dependent the direction of the force applied to the threads. The perpendicular edge is the strong part. And the direction must always be called out.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 8 hours ago* (last edited 7 hours ago) (1 children)

Thanks so much. I did not know the original purpose of the profile. In my experience with 3d printing, the buttress profile strength is in the opposite orientation when printed vertically. The additional length of the tapered profile creates a better distributed load across more layers of the stretching member/fastener. Still, I will prioritize overall printability without supports over thread directional orientation in most cases. I'm usually using a very large custom sized thread where the thread strength is irrelevant.

Like here in my laptop GPU water cooler project, I am using a buttress thread and spline to retain the cooling block and pump.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 1 points 6 hours ago (1 children)

At that diameter, I would probably recommend a bottle cap thread. It's a rounded profile that is easy to print.

[–] j4k3@lemmy.world 1 points 5 hours ago

Walls are too thin for a bottle and with the cut for r&i I would expect it to have issues at the seam. Even with this, the seam requires holding until it starts to get touching contact. Maybe if the bottle is extended past the 45°-50° tangent it would do a little better but then it has drop potential, especially with this PC/ABS blend and no part fan in an enclosure.

[–] Rolive@discuss.tchncs.de 6 points 18 hours ago (1 children)

Ackschually, you don't need to print them entirely sideways for structural integrity. Printing at an angle should also work and you don't get so many artifacts from support material.

[–] pixeltree@lemmy.blahaj.zone 5 points 18 hours ago

It's still a lot weaker than horizontal. Probably strong enough, but still significantly weaker. Personally i print horizontal without support, cutting bottom face through the head so it lies flat, though that won't work well if you need the head fully intact

[–] Thorry84@feddit.nl 5 points 19 hours ago (1 children)

Is that the LTT Noctua screwdriver?

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 3 points 13 hours ago

Maybe, it was a mystery

[–] Fondots@lemmy.world 10 points 22 hours ago* (last edited 22 hours ago) (2 children)

Just an FYI if you're not familiar with American screw sizes, calling this a 10-32 equivalent is probably going to confuse come people.

The naming convention used for screws in America includes the shank diameter and the pitch of the thread in threads per inch (TPI)

So a 10-32 in a #10 diameter screw with 32 threads per inch

Below about ¼ inch diameter, the American system usually uses that numbered system, a #10 screw is .190 inches or roughly 3/16

For larger diameter screws they usually just use the nearest fractional equivalent instead of the screw number, so a ¼-20 is roughly ¼ inch (actually .242in/ or #14) diameter and has 20 TPI

Most sizes have a standard coarse and fine thread, for #10 32TPI is the fine thread, and 20TPI is the coarse thread

Little back-of-the-envelope math that I'm not super confident in, this would be something like a 10-16 screw. You might want to rename it or add a note to that effect, or maybe call it something like a #10 extra coarse thread.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 1 points 9 hours ago (1 children)

Number series machine screws get their designations from wire gage sizes that they were made from. Which traces back to several different British thread systems waaayyy back in the day. While there is no hard and fast rule, the number series screws are sometimes referred to as 'Machine screws' while fractional series fasteners are referred to as 'Bolts'. No one knows why, and Whitworth is dead. (Toolmaker humor).

All actual diameters of screws are a bit under nominal for external and a bit over size nominal for internal. This is the clearance needed to make a screw and nut fit together. This all applies to metric thread fasteners also. Thread fit classes are a story for another day.

[–] Fondots@lemmy.world 1 points 5 hours ago (1 children)

I'm not sure if the wire gauge thing is right, unless you're talking about a different system than I'm familiar with, because with wire gauge smaller number=bigger wire, and with screw sizes smaller number=smaller screw

Also just my 2¢ on "machine screw" vs "bolt" as a casual tinkerer with various things held together by different types of threaded fasteners.

Generally speaking if it's got a hex head or nut that I'm using a wrench to tighten, it's a bolt

If it's got some sort of hole (or God forbid a slot) that I'm going to use some sort of a driver (for the purposes of this, an Allen "wrench" is a driver) to tighten, it's a screw.

And of course everything gets really murky when we start talking about things like sheet metal screws, lag bolts/screws, masonry screws, etc.

[–] jonfairbairn@hostux.social 1 points 2 hours ago

@Fondots @Bluewing especially since the terminology is different in different dialects of English. I think what you call lag bolts might be coach bolts over here.

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 3 points 21 hours ago

I don't know much, other than I have a box of them at home which I used for my older designs, and kept with since I could buy them cheap enough in bulk.

Wanted to make them out of plastic because I wanted to save some costs and this is what I got. I also find it funny that I got the thread which has a 15.875TPI at the end of the day. Half of what I am use to.

[–] SpikesOtherDog@ani.social 13 points 23 hours ago (3 children)

Have you considered a slotted head? They will scale better than a cross head, which works best with a machined fit.

Do different fills have different effects on the sturdiness? I would think that a solid fill is the best, but my kid insists different fills are more rigid.

[–] GreenKnight23@lemmy.world 12 points 20 hours ago (2 children)

fuck slotted.

fuck fuck fuck fuck slotted.

fuck slotted all the way back to 1513 and the first clock maker who released those accursed damnable screws on humanity.

I would rather gouge out my fingernails and toenails with a dull spoon than have to suffer through another slotted screw that's somehow worse than normal slotted screws.

fuck. slotted. screws.

[–] Onomatopoeia@lemmy.cafe 7 points 18 hours ago

Wish I could upvote you more.

Any time I take out a slotted screw, I throw the fucker away and replace with (preferably) torx, but I'll settle for Phillips.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world -1 points 9 hours ago (1 children)

Meh, slotted screws get used a lot. What most people don't get is the reason they have problems with slotted screw heads is because they don't use a proper fitted driver that fits the slot correctly. You always try to use an undersized driver and are then shocked to discover you have problems.

Don't blame the tool for your poor choices. Use the properly fitted tool for the job.

[–] filcuk@lemmy.zip 1 points 5 hours ago (1 children)

Slotted only have two points of contact, which is part of what makes them so easy to strip.
Most other fasteners have double that as a minimum.
Slotted are also generally used in old-fashioned furniture only where I live, and those tend to be very shallow for aesthetic or historical reasons, making the problem even worse.

[–] Bluewing@lemmy.world 3 points 3 hours ago (1 children)

A properly fitted straight bladed screw driver will fit snugly in the slot along it's entire length. This offers more than the 'two points of contact' that your poorly chosen screw driver does. Add a hollow ground blade, they get an amazingly powerful grip. Learn to fit a screw driver properly and you will seldom have a problem with a slotted screw. As toolmakers and high end gunsmiths know and you don't.

Of course, if you have neither the skill or enough ambition to be bothered to ensure the tool fits the fasteners correctly, you probably should choose a more foolproof tool and fastener.

[–] filcuk@lemmy.zip 1 points 43 minutes ago* (last edited 42 minutes ago)

skill or ambition to ensure the tool fits

Do I look like a rocket surgeon

[–] dual_sport_dork@lemmy.world 12 points 23 hours ago

Slotted is the way to go. I've messed with a lot of drive types on 3D printed screws and I always come back to slotted, because it's the most resistant to being reamed out. Phillips, Torx, Roberson (square), and especially Allen (hex) really don't work very well when printed in plastic.

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 4 points 23 hours ago

Still testing the head designs. Should consider a slot instead since the hole doesn't take well to a metal screw driver.

As for the fills. Wall thickness has more impact than infill due to it's size. With that said, from my testing with stylus, 100% infill bends better than 25% which I am using. But as this is not suppose to be used crooked it shouldn't make too much of a difference.

[–] Imgonnatrythis@sh.itjust.works 6 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

Thanks for sharing! Possible to do it with a torx head?

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 5 points 21 hours ago (1 children)

Anything with sharp angles will be likely strip it. Spanner Drive heads might do it, but it's an uncommon type of screw bit.

[–] GreenKnight23@lemmy.world 3 points 20 hours ago

why limit yourself to current bits? design and print your own bit head that's strong for printed parts.

[–] RickyRigatoni@retrolemmy.com 2 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

Who cares if the head strips even metal screws do that every time

[–] the16bitgamer@programming.dev 5 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

These are the size of 10-32's... if their head strips you are putting a ton of torque on it.

[–] RickyRigatoni@retrolemmy.com 5 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

You underestimate my power.

[–] A_Union_of_Kobolds@lemmy.world 4 points 23 hours ago (1 children)

And my pure stupid stubbornness

[–] ramenshaman@lemmy.world 2 points 21 hours ago (1 children)

And my axe

[–] Thorry84@feddit.nl 3 points 19 hours ago* (last edited 17 hours ago)

Sir, you really shouldn't use your axe to drive screws. It doesn't even work and damages the axe. Also this is a Wendy's.