Small tip from another fomapan user here: I love fomapan, but some of their anti-halation layers are way too strong. Thus, before developing, pre-wash your films until the water is clear and not green or blue anymore.

Reason is, sometimes they put so much antihalation on top of it that it fully saturates your developer, meaning it can't take any more antihalation liquid on and therefore some of it stays behind. These are the green or blue dots you can see on your film. Learned that myself the hard.

There is a way to remove it after developing, however, it's very cumbersome. Basically soak it in alcohol, like isopropyl, and then refix it. Look up the exact recipe online. And I only recommend it as a desperate last option.

Edit: typo.

[–] cr1cket@sopuli.xyz 2 points 2 weeks ago (1 children)

First of all: i really like the look of that picture.

But out of curiosity: went there something wrong during development or was this done on purpose?

[–] antimidas@sopuli.xyz 2 points 2 weeks ago* (last edited 2 weeks ago) (1 children)

Thanks!

Development did go just fine, the two issues were a fat roll (light leaked in through the ends a bit as can be seen in the right side) and scanning.

I've been experimenting with trying to get rid of the newton rings while flatbed scanning. This time I didn't get newton rings thanks to an anti-glare glass bought from goodwill. The finish on the glass is so coarse, though, that the texture is very visible in the scans. Will have to see how bad it is with color film as well.

I'll probably build a custom scanner for 120 at some point, but now I'll just have to try to make this work. I've been planning on trying to build a drum scanner using APDs and some readily available ADC to see how much dynamic range I can get out of them.

[–] cr1cket@sopuli.xyz 1 points 2 weeks ago

Thanks for the info :-)

That coarse structure makes it look like an ancient photograph you found in a damp basement, which contrasts nicely with the scene from present day.