This is another good point. I'd try turning off Fast Startup first, and if that alone doesn't clear the issue, try this (leaving Fast Startup off).
Redkey
joined 2 years ago
Make sure that Windows Fast Startup is turned off. I don't know if that's specifically the problem here, but in my experience quite a few "everything's fine, it should be working!" boot issues have been resolved by booting into Windows, turning off Fast Startup, and then doing a full shut down before going back to Linux, especially on laptops.
Alas, that's already the name of a game engine.
If you're not going to jailbreak a New 3DS (probably my choice if I was focusing on DS and 3DS games, because those real dual screens make a difference), then why not just get a controller to use with the smartphone you probably already have in your pocket? Even a mid-range smartphone will match or beat most inexpensive handhelds for retro game emulation.
Why not? I think it's just an interesting side project fo the dev. This is a port of the original version for modern home computers, so it's not like they're limiting their audience.
But I would suggest that while it should be possible to make a good adaptation for 3rd generation systems (NES etc.), you're not going to be able to make a substantially similar product until you reach at least the 5th generation (PlayStation etc.), and perhaps not even then. The blurry parallax backgrounds, high number of particles, and level of detail make it necessary.
I was so triggered by the conversion from char-to-int-to-string-to-packedint that I had to write a bitwise version that just does char-to-packedint (and back again), with bitwise operators.
As others have pointed out, there are probably better options for doing this today in most real-life situations, but it might make sense on old low-spec systems if not for all the intermediate conversion steps, which is why I wrote this.
"Windows has inconsistency with icons and design in some areas."
I prefer Linux, but what? Oh, hello pot! Have you met my friend kettle?
Outside the major cities, at least, video arcades in Japan are still hanging on in 2025 with a mix of games. There are a lot of pseudo-gambling token games (think prize tickets), crane-style prize games, and simple, highly physical games (big buttons and levers, controller and body tracking) aimed at the 5-to-10-year-old segment.
In terms of things we'd recognize as "real" games, almost everything is groups of locally networked terminals with some kind of physical gimmick that doesn't translate well to a home experience. There are still some racing games, music games, and the like, with uncommon controllers and layouts, but the most common format right now is probably a flat table with an embedded screen that has some way of scanning and tracking collectible trading cards. The cards aren't just scanned in once for use and then put aside, but actually moved around the table as tokens within the game. Obviously there are "Magic" style games, but also RPGs (both turn-based and action), MOBAs, real-time strategy, and more. Horse racing games are also popular, but to be clear, the players don't "ride" the horses; they raise, trade, manage, and "bet" on them, and watch simulated races.
And these days almost everything uses player profiles saved to IC cards, ranked across the country and sometimes even the world.
Occasionally you'll see four or six of the old sit-down "city" style cabinets (like the ones pictured in the article) in a corner, running 1-on-1 fighting games, but those are mainly found in the specifically "retro" arcades.
One thing that I discovered about charging PS3 pads, which doesn't seem to be mentioned a lot, is that they appear (my guess, unconfirmed) to require proper USB current negotiation before they will start charging. In fact, I've found multiple sources saying that they can be charged from any USB power source, which isn't true.
The original USB standard states that USB hosts should start a connection with 100mA of current, and the client can request increases in 100mA steps up to 500mA. I assume that the PS3 USB ports support this, as do pretty much all computer USB ports. But the majority of wall plug USB chargers don't; they just allow a maximum current draw of 500mA (or more) from the start and ignore increase requests.
It seems like the majority of equipment manufacturers ignored this part of the spec, since the host needs circuitry to limit current in any case, so many chargers don't bother with circuitry to respond, and even when the port does respond to increase requests, the port is actually always allowing the maximum draw and simply approving all requests.
However, I think that the PS3 pads actually wait for an "OK" response before continuing, which the majority of wall chargers (especially the cheap ones) never send. I had to use the PS3 or a PC (direct connection, not through a hub) to charge my pads until I found a cheap PS3 controller charging dock that works with any supply.
I have a stack of Logitec F310 controllers, and I've never had them fail to work on any system (Windows, Linux, Android). They're not "pro gamer" or anything, fairly basic, but they've always responded smoothly for me even after many years of use. They're inexpensive, wired, and have an "XBox - DInput" switch on the back (at least mine do; that feature may have been removed by now).
The F310 (what I use) is wired and has no rumble feedback.
The F510 is wired and has rumble feedback, but I've never used one.
The F710 is wireless 2.4GHz (not Bluetooth) and has rumble feedback. I have two of these, and in my experience neither of them connects reliably, even under Windows with the official software installed.
I loved my MDs and Hi-MDs, but they had so many frills. All the frills. That was part of why I loved them!
So many great games. Some of my favourites (mostly action RPGs, exclusives marked *):