elDalvini

joined 2 years ago
[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 4 points 1 month ago

I think this might just be a particularly uncooperative tire, but it should work if you wrestle it on there. Maybe post a picture of the whole wheel, there might be something here I'm missing.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 6 points 1 month ago (1 children)

Alt text:

The zoo takes special care to keep kings separated from opposite-color pieces as part of their conservation program to prevent mating in captivity.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 15 points 1 month ago (3 children)

Unpopular opinion: The license makes sense and should have been enforced from the start.

The Benchy is a benchmarking tool, not just visually but there are also various features you can measure and check against the dimensions on the website. But that doesn't work if the model you're printing has been modified.

If it looks like a beachy, it should have been printed from the original model, so it's always comparable. Preventing derivatives means you can be sure of that, even if it came on the included SD card with your printer. Otherwise, manufacturers could include a modified model that makes their printers look better than they are.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 6 points 4 months ago

Every single freewheel does this, and it's not an issue.

The freewheel bearings don't line up exactly with the wheel bearings. This is always the case to some degree, because the interface between freewheel and hub is a non-precision thread.

It might look weird when freewheeling, but once you put use the pedals, freewheel and hub are rotating together, negating this wobble.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 4 months ago

If you can wait a couple weeks, AliExpress is going to be the cheapest.

eBay may be a bit more expensive, but it's often my go-to because you can find everything and usually there are options with short shipping times.

For not too obscure parts, I would look at Reichelt, their prices are surprisingly low (especially if you bundle your orders to save on shipping costs).

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 4 months ago (2 children)

Can you get a big flathead screwdriver in there to carefully knock it out? It should allow you to get a better angle than the dedicated tool.

Go slowly and alternate the places you're putting the end of the screw driver. You want to push the cup out evenly, or it will jam and possibly deform the head tube.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 6 points 4 months ago (1 children)

HiPER Calc Pro. A great scientific calculator I use constantly. (There is also a unpaid, ad-supported version, and the ads weren't too intrusive the last time I tried it)

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 2 points 4 months ago

That's probably not a bad idea, although I doubt it will make much of a difference. But since you're redesigning the whole thing, might as well do it.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 3 points 4 months ago (4 children)

It looks like you would want an even airflow through the whole PSU. The main heat-generating components are using the sides of the housing as a heat sink. I'm guessing the fan is mostly so the air inside the housing doesn't get too warm, not to cool individual components.

Where is the original air exhaust? If it's near the bottom of the picture, that would confirm my theory. In that case, I would keep the fan placement as close to original as possible (i.e. the blue square).

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 5 points 5 months ago

You can use a boost converter to boost the 5V of an USB port to the 19V your notebook needs.

Assuming 5A output from a powerbank (which is probably about the max you will get without USB PD), you could theoretically get 0.55A at 19V. With the unavoidable inefficiencies, you will get less.

So, maybe enough to very slowly charge your notebook while it's off. But when it's turned on, the battery charge will still drop.

[–] elDalvini@discuss.tchncs.de 17 points 5 months ago (3 children)

Sure, the skull is biodegradable. But didn't you know that large-scale human farming is responsible for the vast majority of CO2 emissions?!

 

My 5 year old notebook is starting to show it's age, so I want to finally build a "real" PC. I rarely play games, so this is probably overkill - But I don't want my PC to be what's stopping me. I also expect it to last a while.

I chose all AMD because I'm running linux, and AMD seems to still be the best choice for that.

I found a couple similar posts on which I based this list, so most of the parts are probably fine. I'm unsure about the cooler: How much headroom should I leave? This one is rated just 10W higher than the CPU TDP, so it might be cutting it too close.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type Item Price
CPU AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D 4.2 GHz 8-Core Processor €385.00
CPU Cooler be quiet! Pure Rock Slim 2 CPU Cooler €23.94
Motherboard MSI B650 GAMING PLUS WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard €160.24
Memory G.Skill Flare X5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory €99.89
Storage Crucial P2 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Purchased For €0.00
Video Card ASRock Challenger OC Radeon RX 7600 8 GB Video Card €255.00
Case MSI MAG FORGE 110R ATX Mid Tower Case €54.85
Power Supply Gigabyte UD750GM 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply €75.43
Case Fan be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan €9.32
Case Fan be quiet! Pure Wings 3 49.9 CFM 120 mm Fan €9.32
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total €1072.99
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-09-04 20:37 CEST+0200
 

I built my 3D printer a couple of months ago, but I can't get it to print sharp corners. The corners in the picture should be 90°, without any fillets:

During this test print, I played with multiple parameters: speed, temperature, acceleration, junction deviation, linear advance. All of these were also individually tuned previously. Nothing seems to make a difference.

Could this be a issue with the construction of my printer? I'm beginning to think my hotend isn't rigid enough, but then I would at least expect better results at low speeds.

Edit: the printer is a CoreXY of my own design running Marlin 2.1.2.1. The Slicer is PrusaSlicer with most settings left as default (but increased speeds)

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