Hi, I've been looking for a chance to get a huge fresnel lens from a rear projector TV for awhile and I finally found one junked (and rained on) on garbage day and managed to get the screen off before the truck took it.

The problem is that the screen seems to be different in composition from others I've seen online. There was one dark tinted, but otherwise clear plastic sheet, and an opaque one that might be a fresnel lens with a diffuser layer glued on. The TV was a Mitsubishi which are supposed to be a good source for fresnel lenses but the overall design and wide aspect ratio of the screen suggest it was a newer model. It definitely did have a projector inside (a single one with a sort of bubble dome on it).

I'm wondering if anyone knows more about these tvs, or has any suggestions for getting the two layers apart - the thin sheet seems to be both adhered very well and brittle - it only pries off in tiny chunks. I'm thinking about using a heat gun, I don't know if there's some other truck to this I should know.

Thanks very much for any advice!

Can this be done without replacing the ceiling? The house was built in 1980, so I’m not surprised that there is warpage, but I’d like to hide it if possible.

I thrifted a canvas painting and it has some black marks on the top edge. Does anyone know how I can get rid of them without the paint I use to cover it up turning out to be a completely different shade of white?

Note: there are a couple of electric tools (i.e drill) that are used in a few of those examples but I also think there are plenty of great tips.

cross-posted from: https://rss.ponder.cat/post/156474

It started when [Mitxela] was faced with about a hundred incorrectly-placed 0603 parts. Given that he already owned two TS101 soldering irons, a 3D printer, and knows how to use FreeCAD (he had just finished designing a custom TS101 holder) it didn’t take long to create cost-effective DIY soldering tweezers.

Two screws allow adjusting the irons to ensure the tips line up perfectly.

The result works great! The TS101 irons are a friction-fit and the hinge (designed using the that-looks-about-right method) worked out just fine on the first try. Considering two TS101 irons are still cheaper than any soldering tweezer he could find, and one can simply undock the TS101s as needed, we call this a solid win.

One feature we really like is being able to precisely adjust the depth of each iron relative to each other, so that the tips can be made to line up perfectly. A small screw and nut at the bottom end of each holder takes care of that. It’s a small but very thoughtful design feature.

Want to give it a try? The FreeCAD design file (and .stl model) is available from [Mitxela]’s project page. Just head to the bottom to find the links.

We’ve seen DIY soldering tweezers using USB soldering irons from eBay but the TS101 has a form factor that seems like a particularly good fit.

From Blog – Hackaday via this RSS feed

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/20107309

Source: Bon Bagay: Permaculture, Abundance and Autonomy (scroll to bottom)

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/20107320

Source: Bon Bagay: Permaculture, Abundance and Autonomy (scroll to bottom)

I am building some simple "pallets" out of 4x4 lumber to ship some machines.

The plan is to screw the feet of the machines to the top of 8 foot long 4x4s, and then to screw shorter 4x4s, probably about 4 feet, to the top of them as crossbars to move the machines with pallet jacks. Basically, I'd have a rectangle 8 feet long by 4 feet wide with the weight being supported from above by the crossbars. I'm not sure how much the machines weigh, but as a guesstimate, I'd put them at about 600 lbs each.

My question is what type and length of screws should I be using for this? I may double up on the cross bars if it doesn't feel strong enough to safely carry the weight. Given I'm using 4x4s, I'll have about 7" of wood to work with, I imagine 6 inches would be a minimum length, but I don't know if I need some thicker screws, in which case I might need to drill some pilot holes.

Thanks for the help

Like the title, I have a small DIY project where I’m going to put a gerbil tunnel system connecting two of the enclosures in the image together. Because the transparent window is thin clear plastic they aren’t really strong enough to handle any force at where the tunnels will connect to the windows.

So, I want to put stabilizing bars connecting both enclosures together at their frame. I’m thinking like a 1”x1” hard plastic bar, that’s 6”-12” long, at the corners of the window that lock into square plates that have three sides lifted (“c” style) to slot and lock the bar into. I don’t know what this would be called. Idk where I would find it. But, this seems like something I’ve seen before and should exist.

Does anything come to mind?

hi all! I am tetraplegic and drive my wheelchair with my chin. the medical grade facemasks I've tried over the last few years make it impossible to do this while wearing them properly. I have 2 cloth masks that can be worn while driving, but I know they don't offer much protection, so I'm here to ask

1. if detachable air filters even exist?
2. whether they can be installed in a cloth mask

Hello Lemmy,

Youve been so helpful over the last few months. Maybe someone can help me with this.

I have this butchers block countertop with an undermount sink. I had it installed 18 months ago. I sealed it, and then this part was being warped and forced apart. I put in wood block, I resealed it. But as you can see, its coming apart again.

I followed all the advice of the handy men I know, including the one that installed it. The only thing I can think of is, aside from reblocking and sealing it, maybe a line of silicon around where the faucet comes up, and around the lip where the sink is flush with hole its mounted in, both things they assured me wouldn't be necessary. Should I be concerned about a leak on the underside? Am I just hosed?

(More pics of the whole set up on request)

Hey all!

I'm at the process of building an enclosure for my 3D printer. Its purpose is to keep the heat inside, while dampening the sound from the printer.

I already have the base to absorb any vibrations, but I need side panels too for said heat and noise insulation.

For that purpose, there are only two options, but both acoustic panels or insulation foam are either not flame retardant, expensive or both.

I thought about that problem a while, and came to the idea, that I could go the DIY route and make either mycelium based plates, or plant fiber (like hemp) turned into concrete, aka. hempcrete.

Luckily, I'm both a mushroom and weed enthusiast with quite a lot of solarpunk spirit, and have everything I need for both. But I just don't know where to start.

Here's how I would do it:

Mushroom bricks

• I'd probably take Reishi as culture, because from my experience, it was the most robust mycelium. Oysters weren't as firm, but grew way faster and with less contamination.
• Make grain spawn as starter culture
• Mix it with plant materials, like hemp fiber, straw, or saw dust
• Fill egg cartons or something similar (uneven surface for better sound crushing properties) with the inocculated substrate
• And let them incubate for two weeks
• When finished, take out of the mould and put it into the oven for drying
• Finished

Hempcrete

• I would probably start with animal litter substrate, basically small chopped hemp fibers
• Mix it with calcium hydroxide (hydrated lime)
• Add some cement
• Pour into mould
• Cure for a week
• Finish?

How feasible is all of that? While I'm all into that for research purposes, I also want something that just works.

How experimental is it? Are there already any well documented procedures for both?

How's the long term stability, e.g. degradation, mold risk, smell, dimensional stability, etc.? Especially regarding the mushrooms, how can I prevent them from turning either moldy or brown when drying?

What alternative materials are also well suited for that purpose?

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/17687690

where could someone find a pair of sturdy, comfortable goggles that an optometrist can put a prescription into?

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/16912428

Up until a few days ago, I've had a Google Pixel 5.

I used it for about 3-4 years, but I had to replace it due to its' hardware failing and it hitting EOL software support wise. Especially the USB-C port is damaged, and the battery is drained in just one blink of an eye.

Said device is now lying around in the drawer, and I want to find a good use out of it. It's still a fine phone. Like all those phones other people have in their drawer. It's probably faster than my homeserver, has cameras, sensors, wireless connections, and much more.

It has GrapheneOS installed, and is still more or less secure, probably even more than 80% of other android phones right now I guess?

**Do you have any ideas for what I can repurpose it? **

I know that there's Octo4a, which can turn it into an Octoprint server for my 3D-printer, but I already have a Raspberry Pi for that, and as said, the phone has an unstable USB connection.

Maybe I could use it for my photography equipment, e.g. as remote shutter?

cross-posted from: https://slrpnk.net/post/16376900

The W and R keys don't work on my ASUS vivobook flip 14 and I would like to fix them so I can give the laptop to a friend. The reason they stopped working is because I spilled water on them a long time ago. Other than that, the laptop works perfectly fine.

I saw some teardown videos for an entire keyboard replacement for it, but it looks wayyyyyy too complicated and easy to mess up. I have expierence replacing stuff like batteries and SSDs in computers.

Is there a way to replace/fix those two keys without taking out the entire motherboard?

Direct link to the PDF guide on how to build the heater here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1N-q3Zu6jngpSJdXUoSkWl4YKb26RCvAV/view

A super cool collection of projects ranging from how to make an effective fluoride varnish for dental protection, abortion medication, and more!

hell yeah

I've got an appx 12' x 24' space between my single story house and tall metal barn garage. The roof of the house slopes toward the space.

I want to convert it into a greenhouse so I can grow veggies without having to chase off critters. Ideally I should be able to install gutters that drain to a rain barrel.

I'm hoping some of you fine folks have resources and recommendations for this kind of project.