You can try to disable software End-Stops with this gcode:
M211 S0
Be aware though, if you do that, there is nothing preventing your printer from trying to move beyond the hardware limits and possibly destroying itself. You can enable the end-stops again with:
M211 S1
It's called HDR (High Dynamic Range) photography. Your phone is taking three pictures: one at a medium exposure, one at a bit higher exposure and one at a bit lower exposure.
The higher exposed picture will have a blown-out sky, but more detail in the darker area, while the lower-exposed one will have a correctly exposed sky with the darker areas underexposed.
These pictures are then combined by taking the correctly exposed areas of each picture, i.e. the sky from the low-exposure picture and the shadows from the high-exposure one, giving you a single picture without over- or underexposed areas.
I don't know about OpenCamera, but you should be able to select the size of the exposure bracket, meaning how much higher or lower the different pictures are exposed.
Solvespace might be exactly what you're looking for. It is FOSS and works well for simple models. Some functionality is missing though, for example chamfers and fillets.
Alles trägt zum Klimawandel bei, die Frage ist nur wie viel. Ich fände eine einheitliche Kennzeichnung, wie groß die Auswirkung ist, sinnvoller - so ähnlich wie der Nutri-Score.
Das hätte eine tatsächliche Informations-Funktion statt dieser generellen Schuldzuweisung ("Alle Fleischesser sind böse"), die wahrscheinlich nur begrenzt effektiv wäre.
Those adapters should definitely be fine for 24 V. Running the fans off 19 V will probably work, but they will run at slightly slower RPM (probably not a big problem for a filter).
I have the exact same setup and also didn't get the warning yet. Maybe pihole stops the AdBlock detection?
It really isn't hard, and for me it's quite meditative. Truing old wheels can be frustrating if the rim is in bad shape, but with new components it normally goes very smoothly.
Something I figured out way too late: get a good spoke key in the right size, not one of the universal ones. It makes truing so much more enjoyable if don't have to grab onto the extra slots in the spoke key all the time.
You could use a voltage divider followed by a unity-gain amplifier to lower the output impedance, about like this:
(I think that circuit could work, but I haven't thought about it a lot, so it might not)
Not really. With that bulb, all the light is focused forward, not to the side. The light will never hit the reflector, it is only focused by the lens in the LED housing, and that isn't enough.
From looking at the LED bulb, I can tell you that it will not work very well in that flashlight.
The reflector of the flashlight is built so light coming from a very small source (like the filament of an incandescent bulb) is directed forward in a focused beam. With the led bulb, light is coming from 10 different spots, none of them being in the focus point of the reflector. The result will be a spread out beam that won't be bright over longer distances.
The only type of LED bulb that could work is something like this car replacement bulb that keeps the light source to a relatively small spot. But I don't think those are available in the size you need.
I'm guessing it's about documenting the assembly of safety-critical components. If some part of, let's say an airplane fails because a bolt comes loose, the manufacturer wants to have a paper trail attached to it to prove that this specific bolt was indeed torqued to the correct spec. Connecting the wrench to the network could make this documentation much easier.