3DPrinting

It's only $10 shipped for the whole kit from Creality, so I figured why not. I accidently pinched the wiring and had to repair it so that's why there's heat shrink on it.

I think I'm done, hit my mental energy limit. I have a very small 3d design company, where I started by taking small projects, making the design and then selling it on either Etsy or Artisans coop. I'd also attend local craft fairs, or makers markets.

I've had a lot of fun and satisfaction doing this, solved some cool problems for people and made a small amount of money. (Mostly just paid for the printers)

But, the last three craft fairs I've attended I sold literally nothing at one, and only a few dollars at the others, Etsy sales have dried up and Artisans coop never got off the ground for me. I know I need to market, but I've been doing it without Meta/deadbird etc which is so tough.

So I think I'm done and just want a way out.

If anyone either has advice on how to sell this company (its an LLC) or if you are even interested in buying it, maybe DM me. I've got tons if filament, a pair of nice printers, probably a few dozen 3d designs plus a bunch of replacement parts for the printers. PrusaXL2T and Vivedino Troodon300 heavily modded.

Basically I would like to give Orca a fair try, and import my stuff because while Cura gives me quick, accurate print times… Orca gives me far slower and despairing optimistic times, so it really takes several times longer than it says. I have a Sovol SV07 Plus, and technically it looks like there are profiles but if the results are agonizingly slow…

I tried to import a 3mf and it happily ignored everything aside from the models.

What can I do?

Edit: I looked into this more, and the printer’s profile seems fine, it’s the presets that need all the speed values increased by nearly 10 times lol. Still confused about that, but hey. I found what’s wrong.

I tried 3d print glue stick. washing with alcohol. wash the nozzle, cold pull, higher bed temperature... nothing,

the i has 3 successful prints with the same file, and now for the life of me I can't get it to work

Hi there. I'm the Owner of an Voron 2,4, which dosent sees much use because i m a lazy ass. After my last Upgrade: SB2209 CAN board Carthographer 3D Phaetus Rapido HF

Did i decide that i need a fresh Klipper Install. Some of my Calibration: E-steps calibrated (stored in printer.cfg) Carthographer probe calibrated Input Shaping (MZV) done and values saved in printer.cfg Pressure Advance: default Voron value still in printer.cfg, but I tune PA per filament in OrcaSlicer

Problem: Switched to a different ABS filament and now: Walls and holes are off (clearly due to flow differences) Corners are missing or bulging Over-extrusion behavior So dimensional accuracy is lost.

I have separate filament profiles in OrcaSlicer, but I’m unsure:

What must be done once in firmware (e.g. in printer.cfg)?

What should be tuned per filament/spool in the slicer?

Which calibrations are required at minimum, and where do you store the results (slicer vs firmware)?

There are tons of calibration prints and tuning tools out there — → Which ones do you consider mandatory at least once? → Which do you repeat for every filament? → Any automated routines or test macros you use regularly?

Trying to improve my workflow and avoid unnecessary retuning while keeping dimensional accuracy across filaments.

Thanks in advance!

More problems resolved:

The Bowden tube was not seating fully, leading to clogs in the hot end. I reversed the tube due to the damage where the coupling held the tube and slight deformation at the end. I cut and sanded the tube for a better fit.

There was a clog inside the hot end and I cleared it partially with a wire. My guess was that the tube wasn't seating properly, causing the filament to bunch up in the wrong point. I heated up the hot end again to 250 and when I fed the tube in the clog loosened and both went up the tube and out the nozzle. After clearing the tube, I fed the filament and lowered the temp until it came out consistently.

Also, my esteps were not calibrated properly. 93 value gave me.... about 93 mm. Setting it to 100 gave me 98 mm. At 102, it appears spot on.

Finally, since the extruder gear appeared to be biting into the PLA, and due to the gear skipping, I loosened the tensioner some.

The fact that anything came out previously leaves me scratching my head. The saving grace had to have been that I leveled the bed before I began the previous print.

I've been wanting an F1-style steering wheel for sim racing for ages, but I didn't want to spend massive amounts of cash on a commercially-built steering wheel that could be great but had loads of features I didn't care about (especially LEDs and a screen) since I play in VR.

A colleague of mine, who is also into sim racing, built a steering wheel that was better than almost anything you can find from Fanatec/Moza/Thrustmaster/whatevs for around 500€.

So, of course, I decided to ~~buy the same thing~~ build it myself from scratch for the challenge and to save some money. Because I'm an idiot, I guess. I thought it would take me 2-3 weekends. It took 4 months. It's basically a wheel-shaped mechanical keyboard. It was the biggest non-essential project of my life. I learned a lot, including not getting myself delusional enough to start that kind of project on a whim.

Features:

• F1-shaped steering wheel, heavily inspired by Ferrari's one with the general shape and front. Back is closer to Mercedes'.
• Magnetic shift paddles
• Analog clutch (WIP)
• 7 rotary encoders
• 10 face buttons + 2 back buttons + 5 clickable encoders
• Quick-release connection to the steering column
• Aviator-style USB connector
• QMK firmware
• Everything is 3D-printed except for the aluminium mid-plate and the quick-release

If you guys are interested I have a few WIP pictures, so I could start a build log. WDYT?

Not a request for help—yet, at least. Just showing off the gore from getting the printer working again.

It was living on the floor of the basement where my son dumped it after moving down there. I finally picked it to and gave it a home on my own work bench.

Initially, it was printing fine, but after the first dozen mm of PLA, it clogged up. Son didn't have the tool, so after trying to improvise, I ended up removing the nozzle. That was all good, except there was old pla in the nozzle. Second plan of attack ended up with me heating to 250 and plunging the chamber with fresh PLA until it started sputtering. I then returned the Bowden tube and dialed down the heat to 200. It seemed to hold, so I reassembled the hot end.

Next, I attempted to print again, but I had no tool heat. Power cycle and reconnecting to octoprint resolved that. Then I reversed and fed the filament until it ran properly.

As you can see here, the next problem was patchy, uneven extrusion. I found that the extrusion would continue with a little bit of pressure against the filament to the drive gear. That's where you see the dark patch on the right where it started working again on the second layer.

You can see the big gap in the middle, and it was as it was passing left over that spot I noticed that the drive bearing wasn't moving. so I first loosened the screw that held it in. I paused the print and removed the bearing, lubricating it with some PBlaster. Since that didn't resolve it, I found the tension bolt was loose and put it all the way to max.

Observing the printer further, I noticed that the drive gear was jumping back when it did not appear to need to be retracting. It was here that I realized it was a pressure/flow issue, so I paused the printer again and increased the temp to 205. Once it stabilized, it started printing smoothly again.

Below is the continued/rescued print. It's a rough draft, so the mess won't bother me. I feel safe enough now to walk away again and let it do its thing.

Something a little different.

I love the way they look.

Has anyone run two nema dual shaft motors mechanically coupled in series? the Ender 5 plus uses a dual shaft to drive both Y axes, and I'm thinking of adding another, in series, coupled with an elastic coupler.

Thoughts?

Prusa3D Core One assembled from kit ( https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusa-core-one-kit/ ) in roughly 36 hours, including 5 hours of sleep and frequent toddler-herding

Quite fun and satisfying

I did make a few mistakes, but wholly my own, and avoidable by reading the actual instructions

Benchy test print (15 minutes) is complete, so I guess I can start planning holiday show-bag gifts for nieces and nephews

I picked this printer up with a bunch of filament for $60. The build plate was really loose so I took it apart and found that the bearings are loose within the plastic part. Not really sure what to do here. I might epoxy the bearings in place. I saw that there is a y axis linear rail upgrade for $40 but that seems like a waste of money.

I have a Sovol SV08 Max with enclosure. The enclosure has an exhaust fan and an intake fan, controllable seperately.

I've printed PLA with the door open, and ABS with it shut so far.

When would I actually use the exhaust/intake fans? And is there any occurrence where I would need to control them independently?

I ask because I'm wondering if I can rewire them to the same port and use the additional line for a Nevermore filter fan.

Title basically.

One of my windows computers, which happens to be the one I happen to do the most CAD work on, can't upgrade to windows 11 due to having an Ivy Bridge era Xenon (it's an E5-1680 v2 for the curious, older used workstations are fantastic bang for the buck computers).

Switching to Linux on this computer has been in the cards for a while, but I hadn't been in a hurry to do it. Looks like my hand might be getting forced...

3D printing with my first spool of Elegoo Rapid PETG ( https://au.elegoo.com/products/rapid-petg-filament-1-75mm-colored-1kg ) bought at Jaycar , looking very clean and sharp on a slow speed profile

I should recalibrate my Overture PETG ( https://overture3d.com/products/overture-petg ) now that I've figured out the speed issues on my printer

I am looking to buy a new (for me) printer. With my budget being around 500€, i could get a Anycubic Cobra S1 combo (450), a Bambulabs P1S (350) or a Qidi Q2 (499). While all of them are enclosed and are very fast printers, only the Kobra S1 is equipped with a filament changer.

I prefer out of the box accurate prints, i don’t mind clouds but prefer to print locally.

Can someone who has experience with two or all three printer give me an advice?

A chummer got the P1S and is happy, so i tend to buy that one as it is the cheapest option for me as well.

Thanks for your help

I'm thinkin about getting one of those ruby nozzles for my printers to basically be able to print anything without ever having to worry about a degrading nozzle. I've seen quite a few videos about it, but I still don't know two things:

• Given the surrounding material is brass and only the tip being out of ruby, doesn't the filament path where the molten filament gets pushed through still wear out over time (heavily so with CF or GF filament)?

And also

• How good are the cheaper ones, specifically the "DUROZZLE" one (since that's the one I could find that's 0.6mm and cheap)?

Hey there! I want to design a 3d printing part for the dashboard of my golf 6, more precisely the top middle part right .

I am somewhat experienced with designing parts in fusion 360 for daily usage, but I don't really know how to design this part.

I did try getting a fit for the front arc and an arc from the middle front to the middle back, then did construct a plane from both arcs and did round the result on both back edges. But I noticed when trying the fit, that the dashboard top is not really symmetric, but has an additional bump to the left.

Do you have any tips/guidance/ideas on how to get a better fit? I did think about scanning it 3d with some lidar device, but I don't have an iPhone and wouldn't know where else to get a device.

Somehow I managed to lose all of my saved printer and material settings.

Anyone have a Neptune 4 Plus dialed in with esun pla+? What about fiberon pa-gf?

Many thanks!

I'm definitely printing this at work today!

ISOLEYIN Ultra PLA 3D Printing Filament 1kg, 1.75mm

I got two spools of this stuff (black and white). First few prints with the white went perfectly. Since then, it won't adhere normally.

I've tried increasing the bed temperature to 60, filament temperature to 210, washed the bed and reapplied the glue, dried the filament.. nothing works.

When I try a raft, it blobs through it, and then won't adhere to itself.

I'm assuming it's me, but idk what I'm doing wrong.

Please be kind, I've only had my printer for a couple of months.

I bought one on a whim about 6 years ago. I printed my first print shortly after setting it up and.. the print failed. Plastic spewed from the nozzle and made a tangled mess. I looked into it some more, continued to try to get it to work. Next the plastic doesn't sit on the bed. Once more plastic spewing from the nozzle and a tangled mess.

I kept trying over the years, bed levelling, nozzle cleaning, third party software patching, purchasing a level measuring device, new spools, higher quality spools, new bed covers. Over and over the prints failed and I ended up, every time, the owner of a freshly produced, still warm plastic spider web. Once or twice I managed to get a print that looked at least somewhat like what I was trying to print. But it'd still be marked by poor layer distancing, bumps, fucked up layers where it didn't adhere properly, and just generally a poor, unsatisfactory quality.

Please understand that I've owned a 3D printer for 6 years and don't know the first thing about them. I must admit I didn't realise how much learning I'd have to do when I purchased one and I'm not the brightest when it comes to this kind of thing. I also have a learning disability that makes it hard for me to pick new things up.

I merely assumed I'd be able to print small items I needed or wanted for various purposes and pick up a part time hobby along the way. But my experience has just been miserable. I don't have the money to purchase a better printer, more up to date one, or to really fix any major issues that might plague my current one. And it's made me want to give up the idea of 3D printing altogether.

The printer I have is a monoprice maker select. It uses PLA. I'm not able to check right now but I'm pretty sure the temps I use are ~200 / ~60. The bed is absolutely destroyed by failing to use glue as an adhesive and the bed level being so off that the printer drove it's nozel into it and leaving a permanent dent deep into the bed.

It's in a pretty poor condition but theres not a lot I can do about it unless the solution is extremely cheap or free. This is kind of a last ditch effort to figure out how to use the thing before I either give it away or throw it out. I'm pretty disappointed by the whole affair to be honest. I really liked the idea of 3D printing.

So, I'm here to ask, how do I even begin to make this thing work? Or should I just give up?

Started making these sounds in the middle of the print. It kept extruding though, didn't stop or something. The stepper motor isn't that old, but wasn't expensive either. Anyone knows this sound?

I do not know anything about 3D printing, let me know if another place might be more appropriate for this post.

My friend about three months ago was in a catastrophic motorcycle accident. He was hit by a texting F150 truck driver. He lost his leg, an eye and has had pretty much full body reconstruction, including jaw and face. He was wondering if he could 3D scan in the helmet he was wearing with all the first responders/doctors (who helped save him that night) signatures then give each one a copy to thank them. He is in Ontario/Brampton area. He can pay for it.

Picture is not of actual helmet. Being sent down from up north right now.